The 1924 Everest Expedition

In 1924, a British team attempted to conquer Everest from the north side. Marked by boldness, records, and tragedy, this expedition remains one of the most iconic in mountaineering history.

An assault via the north face

The 1924 expedition chose the Tibetan approach. Under the leadership of General Bruce, and later Edward Norton after his illness, the climbers established a chain of high camps along the northeast ridge. From there, the decisive summit attempt would begin.

1921

First reconnaissance

The first British expedition explores Everest from the north side. It maps the terrain, charts routes, and paves the way for future attempts.

1922

First record

Norton and Somervell reach 8,225 m without oxygen — an unprecedented feat. This expedition also marks the first attempt at climbing in extreme altitude.

May 1924

Departure under Bruce’s command

General Charles Bruce leads the new expedition. His experience and presence inspire a team determined to make history.

June 1924

Norton takes the lead

Struck by malaria, Bruce is forced to withdraw. Edward Norton then takes command and leads the team toward the heights of Tibet.

4 June 1924

The Norton Couloir record

Without oxygen, Norton reached 8,573 m in the Yellow Band, opening the passage that would later bear his name. This record stood for nearly 30 years.

8 June 1924

The Mallory & Irvine mystery

During their final summit push, Mallory and Irvine vanished above 8,000 m. Their fate remains one of the greatest mysteries in mountaineering.

8,573

In meters, the world altitude record reached without oxygen

8,848

In meters, the official height of Everest

6

6 weeks, duration of the expedition on the mountain

2

Missing climbers, Mallory & Irvine

The pioneers

The pioneers

The expedition begins under Brigadier Charles G. Bruce; falling ill along the way, he transfers command to Norton, who will reach 8,573 m without oxygen. The team includes George Mallory, Andrew “Sandy” Irvine, Howard Somervell, Noel Odell, Geoffrey Bruce, Bentley Beetham and John de Vars Hazard, supported by dozens of Tibetan and Sherpa porters.

A record of altitude

On 4 June, Norton climbs without oxygen through the Yellow Bands and reaches 8,573 m, a height never reached before. His bold route opens what will become the “Norton Couloir”. This record will remain unbeaten for nearly thirty years.

Mallory & Irvine, the enigma

Mallory & Irvine, the enigma

Four days later, George Mallory and Andrew Irvine vanish above 8,000 metres. Did they reach the summit before they died? Their tragic fate continues to fuel one of Everest’s greatest mysteries.

The Norton Couloir

The Norton Couloir

In 1924, Norton opened a new diagonal passage through the Yellow Band, above 8,400 m. This direct line, later named the “Norton Couloir”, remains a known alternative to the Northeast Ridge route. Exposed to wind and rockfall, it stands as a symbol of Norton’s boldness in the “death zone”.

Edward Norton, the quiet strength of Everest

Edward Norton, Mount Everest Expedition 1924

Edward Norton, the quiet strength of Everest

British officer and discreet mountaineer Edward Felix Norton embodies a rare kind of courage: calm and mastery. In 1924, he reached 8,573 meters without oxygen, opening the “Norton Couloir” and leaving a lasting mark on mountaineering history.

Learn more about Edward Norton

Starting point of the expedition

Norton left London for British India, trained in Darjeeling, and then traveled toward Everest’s base camps. From the North Base Camp, the route via the Yellow Band and the Norton Couloir emerged as a bold alternative to the classic Northeast Ridge.

About the expedition

“The summit was not reached, but the limits of what was possible were reshaped.”

Chronicle of the 1924 British expedition.